Rationale for Visual Essay
Cultural Appropriation and how this can be applied to Goth Culture
In the year 2012, an image was circulating over Tumblr, one that started a petition of 10,410 supporters to ban it. The image was of 'emo scar' temporary tattoos by the accessory retailer, Claire's. Why would an accessory store, clearly aimed at young girls with its pink aesthetic advertise something so blatantly offensive? In truth, they didn't, the image was a hoax, and its quite clear once you notice the difference in logos and poor grammar. But this was made for a reason, from the text in the image we can tell that whoever made this understood how insensitive the idea would be and phrased the text in an almost sarcastic manner. 'Transfers to give you that 'depressed/cool' look' 'hey presto! You're emo!' these quotes from the image verge on hilarity in their absurdity. And we may think that such a thing could not possibly mirror real events, or inspire events to happen three years later, when clothing brand Topshop released their temporary scar tattoos. The petition ended with 3518 votes resulting in Topshop removing the products.
I will be exploring how cultural appropriation can be applied to the goth culture, if it can be appropriated at all, specifically looking at Dr Martens and the glamorization of self harm.
The first section of this essay looks into whether or not goth can be appropriated, as a subculture that arose from punk, and consisted of reappropriated aesthetics; can it be appropriated? Goth culture is different to hereditary culture as you enter into it, you diverge from your upbringing to join the minority that celebrates being the minority. Since most cultures form from isolated communities they can possess certain things that are original, but when you have a subculture developing within a culture, there are not many things that are original. When punk came about in 1970s they used mesh, safety pins, tartan and Dr. Martens. All of these existed before punk and signified different things, but since these signs are associated with punk, can they be claimed as punk?
Goths experience prejudice, so in the same way as appropriating elements from oppressed cultures is offensive. Appropriating elements from goth culture is offensive. 'it is infuriating to see the very same people who have insulted you in public for your fashion choices suddenly appropriate your style choices' ("Subcultural Appropriation When Goth Gets Appropriated", 2013)
Goths experience prejudice, so in the same way as appropriating elements from oppressed cultures is offensive. Appropriating elements from goth culture is offensive. 'it is infuriating to see the very same people who have insulted you in public for your fashion choices suddenly appropriate your style choices' ("Subcultural Appropriation When Goth Gets Appropriated", 2013)
The second paragraph looks into cases of appropriation and what constitutes appropriation of the gothic subculture, what can we claim as gothic original? The culture is based off appropriated signs, so what can be claimed? Dr Martens boots have been a staple of punk and goth culture, but they are more diverse than that. The boots started life as practical footwear for industry workers and police officers but were popularised by different subcultures, the most prominent were the punks.
The final section addresses the issue of the glamorization of self harm. With case studies of the 2012 Claire's hoax, and the 2015 Topshop reality. Topshop's description of the product read 'Each tattoo is designed to celebrate our imperfections rather than hiding them', this is a problem as it is dangerously far from reality. While it does encourage self love, it has an asterisk, your imperfections are only beautiful like this: gold, cartoony and above all, removable. Designers don't seem to understand the emotional distress associated with self harm; by glamourizing it, making into accessories and above all warping it into a sparkly and ultimately temporary form you are parodying it, it is appropriation.
list of illustrations:
figure 2. 'My Culture is Not a Costume' Instagram post by alternative.outfit.ideas (2017) Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/BayjPnkgRR7/?taken-by=alternative.outfits.ideas (Accessed: 9 November 2017).
figure 3. New Rock Flame and Skull Boots (2017) Available at: http://www.newrockstore.com/index.php?id_product=5363&controller=product&id_lang=1 (Accessed: 9 November 2017).
figure 5. Alexander Wang Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear (2016)Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/alexander-wang/slideshow/collection#44 (Accessed: 9 November 2017).
figure 6. Slashed Jeans (2017) Available at: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/2015-Hot-Sale-New-Womens-Casual-Black-and-white-High-Waist-Torn-Jeans-Ripped-Hole-Knee/32303490622.html?spm=a2g0z.search0305.3.249.ngmNHU&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_0_10130_10536_10537_10539_10055_10056_10059_10179_10534_10533_10060_100031_10184_10547_10107_10307_10548_10341_10065_10142_10340_10068_10343_10541_10342_10301_10345_10103_10102_10344_10303_10190_10192_10073_10152_10151_10557_10154_10550_10552_10155_10551_10312_10554_10553_10314_10313_10084_10083_10561_10563_10562_10565_10564_10325_10324_10566-10552,searchweb201603_0,ppcSwitch_0&algo_pvid=25bded21-37d6-4ebf-8cc6-6eb56fd31600&algo_expid=25bded21-37d6-4ebf-8cc6-6eb56fd31600-31 (Accessed: 9 November 2017).
figure 7. A picture I took of someone's jeans (2017) taken on 9 November 2017
figure 8. They'll check your wrists, but not your thighs (2012). Available at: http://rebloggy.com/post/self-harm-self-hate-cutter-cutting-scars/34312615098 (Accessed: 9 November 2017).
figure 9. mine (2013) . Available at: http://agenderrr.tumblr.com/post/42589963999 (Accessed: 9 November 2017).
figure 10. Claire's Emo Scars. (2012) Available at: http://wafflesatnoon.com/is-claires-selling-emo-scars/ (Accessed: 10 November 2017).
figure 11. Razor blade necklace: Jewelry with an edge. (2017)Available at: http://www.popgadget.net/2007/05/razor_blade_nec.php (Accessed: 9 November 2017).
figure 12. Topshops' gold scar temporary tattoos. (2015) Available at: http://www.sheknows.com/living/articles/1099085/topshop-accused-of-glamorising-self-harming-with-gold-scar-tattoos (Accessed: 10 November 2017).
figure 13. Cutting Necklace Circle Charm. (2015) Available at: http://www.cafepress.co.uk/+cutting_necklace_circle_charm,1524776975 (Accessed: 11 November 2017).
figure 14.
Triton Brazil 2014 Winter Womens Runway, theme: Dark Romance. (2014) Available at: http://www.denimjeansobserver.com/mag/2013/10/31/triton-2014-winter-inverno-womens-mulheres-desfiles-runway-sao-paulo-fashion-moda-brazil-destroyed-denim-jeans-embroidery-ruffles-sheer-grunge-rock-punk-bomber/ (Accessed: 11 November 2017).
figure 15. Dr Martens Boots. (2013) Available at: http://docmartenheaven.tumblr.com/post/71507845370 (Accessed: 11 November 2017).
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