Visual Essay Draft
Cultural Appropriation and how this can be applied to Goth Culture
I like the concept of cultural appropriation but as I am a privileged white person I have no heritage to be offended over, if it is I don't really care much. I am not part of a particularly proud national culture, however, I am a goth.
Goth culture is different to a hereditary culture as you enter into it, you diverge from what you have been brought up with to join the minority that celebrates being the minority. Since most cultures form from isolated communities they can possess certain things that are original, but when you have a culture developing within a culture, there are not many things that are original. When punk came about in 1970s they used mesh, safety pins, tartan and Dr. Martens, all of these existed before punk and meant different things, it is appropriation to make them part of punk culture. But since these signs are so well associated with punk, can they be claimed as punk?
The main points I will be discussing are:
Can goth culture be appropriated?
Can certain signs, styles or brands be claimed? (Case study of Dr. Martens)
The glamorisation and romanticisation of depression and self harm through appropriation
(Dr. Martens - FOR LIFE, 2017)
Dr. Martens - FOR LIFE (2017). Available at: http://drmartensforlife.com/fr/ (Accessed: 9 November 2017).
'A key component of subcultural style is the appropriation of clothing and objects that differentiate each tribal attire. Research has illustrated that youth cultures adopt and adapt material products as self-conscious expressions of identity'
(Davies, 2014)
Davies, C. (2014) "Smells like teen spirit: Channelling subcultural traditions in contemporary Dr Martens branding", Journal of Consumer Culture, 16(1), p. 194. doi: 10.1177/1469540514521079.
'Prior to 1966, only postal carriers, policemen and factory workers wore Dr. Martens. And little reason why: The boots were simple, durable and comfortable. [...] In the ensuing half century, just about every group did: punks, goths, skinheads, psychobillies. '
Applying cultural appropriation to goth culture helps me understand cultural appropriation more, as a culture you can join and don't need to be born into, I encourage people to become goth if they feel like that is who they are or if it gives them a form of comfort or confidence. If you really love the culture, you'll research the history, you'll understand the significance and what it means to be goth. What I deem to be cultural appropriation and offensive, is when you dress up as goth, if you create parody videos mocking emo kids and stereotyping the subculture. I understand that this is damaging to the subculture. People don't remember the history they remember the horrendously outrageous caricature that popular media has depicted us to be. They are taking elements of our clothing and incorporating them into mainstream fashion, as a culture based on the concept of living in the shadows as outcasts that reject the rest of the world too, how can we be edgy and outcast when what we wear becomes increasingly normal? It is a horrible feeling that you are not goth enough, I was not born a goth, so I feel the only thing keeping me a goth is how much effort I put in, and its becoming increasingly harder. I can't be rebellious if everything I do is accepted!
(alternative.outfit.ideas, 2017)
alternative.outfit.ideas (2017) My culture is not a costume. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/BayjPnkgRR7/?taken-by=alternative.outfits.ideas (Accessed: 9 November 2017).
'the defining characteristics would remain thematic or visual rather than musical'
(Siegel, 2005)
Siegel, C. (2005) Goth's dark empire. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, p. 202.
'when it comes to minority groups, cultural appropriation often occurs in a social context of power imbalance, racism and inequality, rather than the atmosphere of fair, open and multilateral exchange'
(Riley and Carpenter, 2016)
Riley, A. and Carpenter, K. (2016) "Owning Red: A Theory of Indian (Cultural) Appropriation", Texas Law Review, 94(5), p. 864. Available at: http://heinonline.org.ezproxy.mdx.ac.uk/HOL/Page?public=false&handle=hein.journals/tlr94&page=859&collection=journals# (Accessed: 10 November 2017).
Culture should never be a costume, it is inappropriate to dress as a stereotype of another race, of another culture, of another subculture. Appreciation is different to appropriation, appreciation is understanding what you are doing by wearing certain things and respecting the culture, appropriation is born of ignorance and laughing at others, because the idea of an emotionally unstable teenager in striped arm warmers listening to my chemical romance while slitting their wrists is hilarious to some people.
(New Rock, 2017)
New Rock (2017) New Rock Skull and Flame Boots. Available at: http://www.newrockstore.com/index.php?id_product=5363&controller=product&id_lang=1 (Accessed: 9 November 2017).
'Subcultures such as goth have survived because their products (music, fashion, argot, oppositional rhetorics, etc. ) have yet to be "assimilated" in the mainstream.'
(Gunn, 1999)
Gunn, J. (1999) "Marilyn Manson is Not Goth: Memorial Struggle and the Rhetoric of Subcultural Identity", Journal of Communication Inquiry, 23(4), p. 410. doi: 10.1177/0196859999023004007.
You would not see this boot on a random person, its not casual wear, this is a boot designed for goth culture so is extreme in order to appeal to goths. You recognise this as goth because it is too outrageous and different to be appropriated into mainstream.
(AliExpress, 2017)
AliExpress (2017) Men's Silver Metal Chain Wallet. Available at: https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/Men-Silver-Metal-Wallet-Chain-Fashion-2-Strands-CZ-Bling-Cross-Jeans-Keychain-Rock-Biker-Punk/32566177004.html?spm=a2g03.search0302.3.190.bs7hCU&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_0_10130_10536_10537_10539_10055_10056_10059_10179_10534_10533_10060_100031_10184_10547_10107_10307_10548_10341_10065_10142_10340_10068_10343_10541_10342_10301_10345_10103_10102_10344_10303_10190_10192_10073_10152_10151_10557_10154_10550_10552_10155_10551_10312_10554_10553_10314_10313_10084_10083_10561_10563_10562_10565_10564_10325_10324_10566-10552,searchweb201603_0,ppcSwitch_0&algo_pvid=3323bd0e-f6e7-4f9a-bba5-1c2573fee624&algo_expid=3323bd0e-f6e7-4f9a-bba5-1c2573fee624-23 (Accessed: 9 November 2017).
'Early Goth icons adopted a predominantly black wardrobe, adorning themselves in silver jewelry and incorporating religious symbolism in their logos, artwork, and stage performances. As our research shows, crosses and crucifixes are prevalent today, including variants of the Roman-Catholic Papal Cross, the Cross of Lorraine (or “Crusader's Cross”), and the Byzantine Suppedaneum cross of the Russian Orthodox Church.'
(Healey and Fraser, 2017)
Healey, K. and Fraser, L. (2017) "A common darkness: Style and spirituality in Goth subculture", Journal of Popular Music Studies, 29(3), p. e12231. doi: 10.1111/jpms.12231.
This is an example of fashion using gothic elements to create edgier clothing, while also softening the impact and the significance of the goth culture. Chains on jeans become a normal thing, something that made me feel different and powerful is now everywhere and its lost its meaning, I don't feel like I'm good enough.
(Vogue, 2016)
Vogue (2016) Alexander Wang Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/alexander-wang/slideshow/collection#44 (Accessed: 9 November 2017).
This collection was called goth, I disagree. It seems well informed, the designer claims that inspiration came from a 90's hot topic, where at the time, teenagers were smoking weed as an act of rebellion, I don't think that's as significant now. And I have never seen logos reminiscent of Supreme anywhere in goth culture. Supreme is part of a completely contradictory subculture and yet similar logos are seen all over these models. Quite simply, this is a goth collection that does not accurately represent goth, in my opinion. It would have been better to use gothic models too, because when I look at this, there is no way I would associate it with goth, I don't really like any of the items in this collection.
(AliExpress, 2017)
AliExpress (2017) Slashed Jeans. Available at: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/2015-Hot-Sale-New-Womens-Casual-Black-and-white-High-Waist-Torn-Jeans-Ripped-Hole-Knee/32303490622.html?spm=a2g0z.search0305.3.249.ngmNHU&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_0_10130_10536_10537_10539_10055_10056_10059_10179_10534_10533_10060_100031_10184_10547_10107_10307_10548_10341_10065_10142_10340_10068_10343_10541_10342_10301_10345_10103_10102_10344_10303_10190_10192_10073_10152_10151_10557_10154_10550_10552_10155_10551_10312_10554_10553_10314_10313_10084_10083_10561_10563_10562_10565_10564_10325_10324_10566-10552,searchweb201603_0,ppcSwitch_0&algo_pvid=25bded21-37d6-4ebf-8cc6-6eb56fd31600&algo_expid=25bded21-37d6-4ebf-8cc6-6eb56fd31600-31 (Accessed: 9 November 2017).
So these are just some cute edgy jeans with slashes though them, well, do they not look a lot like scars on a cutter's thighs? Is this a subtle reference to cutting in gothic culture? This design would be more acceptable if the jeans were not black and skinny, on thin legs, these are all traits of that poor stereotyped emo kid (who is still listening to my chemical romance). So if they are a reference, is it socially acceptable for a goth to wear them? what if they cut? what if they are not goth? Is it acceptable for anyone to wear these without the knowledge that they could trigger painful memories in someone else who sees them?
(Ball, 2017)
Ball, R. (2017) Slashed Jeans.
(They'll check your wrists, but not your thighs, 2012)
They'll check your wrists, but not your thighs (2012). Available at: http://rebloggy.com/post/self-harm-self-hate-cutter-cutting-scars/34312615098 (Accessed: 9 November 2017).
'Around 10% of those who present to hospital following an act of self-harm commit suicide within 10 years, with the risk being greatest in the first 6 months.'
(Butler, 2016)
Butler, J. (2016) "Self-harm", Medicine, 44(12), p. 715. doi: 10.1016/j.mpmed.2016.09.003.
Sophie ( _weebairn_), 2013)
Sophie ( _weebairn_), (2013) mine.. Available at: http://agenderrr.tumblr.com/post/42589963999 (Accessed: 9 November 2017).
This is a picture of real scars I found to illustrate the similarities between the jeans and the suffering some people go though. Interestingly, this was found with a link attached that would take you to the top 100 images of 'scars' on Pinterest. If I have ever seen glamorisation of another persons suffering it would be this (along with the next image). Its making cutting into an art, making it part of the culture that we should expect, this is soooo bad since it makes it accepted and even encourages self-destructive behaviours rather than encouraging vulnerable individuals to seek help and stop such behaviours.
(Waffles At Noon, 2012)
Waffles At Noon (2012) Claire's Emo Scars. Available at: http://wafflesatnoon.com/is-claires-selling-emo-scars/ (Accessed: 10 November 2017).
I can say for certain that this is definitely a hoax.
Which on the one hand is great since I cannot believe anyone would think that this is a good product to be marketing to young girls but on the other.. it would be really good for my essay. This is a very strong example of glamourizing suffering. Would you wear striped pyjamas and the star of David? No, because that is insanely offensive not only to people who survived the holocaust but to those who died. Its the same with these, and that is why someone created this image, to draw attention to the glamorization of suffering, if someone doesn't point it out and people don't get to react, a product like this runs the risk of becoming a reality.
'Dr Margaret Murphy, chairwoman of the Royal College of Psychiatrists' child and adolescent faculty, said:
'The RCP is seriously concerned at the recent growth in the number of internet sites featuring images and video footage of young people engaging in self-harm and, in particular, websites which appear to promote self-harm.'
(Evening Standard, 2010)
(image)
(Popgadget, 2017)
Popgadget (2017) Razor blade necklace: Jewelry with an edge. Available at: http://www.popgadget.net/2007/05/razor_blade_nec.php (Accessed: 9 November 2017).
'I had no idea that the simple addition of a heart cutout could make wearing a sterling-silver razor blade around your neck more socially acceptable and appropriate for the office. But apparently it does (assuming you don't work with small children or psychiatric patients, of course).'
(quote)
(Park, 2017)
Park, J. (2017) Popgadget Personal Technology for Women: Razor blade necklace: Jewelry with an edge, Popgadget.net. Available at: http://www.popgadget.net/2007/05/razor_blade_nec.php (Accessed: 9 November 2017).
oh my god
if you add a cute heart that does not stop it being the symbol of mental illness and self harm
'assuming you don't work with [...] psychiatric patients, of course' you have no idea if anyone you meet has cut, had someone they love who self harm/ self harmed or lost to mental illness. This is inappropriate and the way that this lady had the audacity to describe it as she did is baffling to me.
'Motifs are selected, gathered, detached from their original temporal occasions, and given enduring value in a new arrangement. In doing so, specific meanings are erased and cultural significance shifts'
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